22 Swan Way Bigfork, MT 59911 |   (406) 257-7326
Your cart is empty

DISCLAIMER: WE DO NOT SHIP OUTSIDE THE AREA OF BIGFORK, MONTANA

The Bold and the Beaujolais...

By Sunshine Deveny, CSW
Published in 406 Woman

Image

The Beaujolais wine region is situated in east central France just south of Burgundy and north of the Rhone Valley. Technically a part of Burgundy where the esteemed vineyards of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grow, but the story of Beaujolais is dominated by the grape varietal Gamay (or more accurately Gamay Noir a Jus Blanc).

Of the 50,000 acres of vineyards in Beaujolais, 95% of them are planted with Gamay. The Gamay grape is known for being low in tannins with a thin skin resulting in a light red wine that can be drunk young. Vintners can also create a stunning wine full of depth and character when made in the traditional manner of wines of distinction. Growing Gamay in the granite soils of Beaujolais gives the wine tastes of red fruit, raspberry, spice, and deep floral notes. If crafted carefully, substantial character and rich structure can be derived from these grapes, producing bottles capable of aging and similar in nature to the more difficult to grow neighbor Pinot Noir to the north.

Grapes are believed to have been first planted in Beaujolais in the first century BC by the Romans, and there is still evidence of Roman influence in the regions of Brouilly and Morgon. Over time the vineyards transferred hands, sometimes by force, with the conquerors continuing to tend the vines. By the 10th century Beaujeu had been declared the capital and was ruled by Dukes until it was ceded to Bourbonnais in 1400. Here starts the sordid history which separates Beaujolais from the rest of the geographical region of Burgundy, and where the Gamay grape takes center stage.

Image

During the bubonic plague Phillippe the Bold made his famous decree outlawing the Gamay grape and forbidding its cultivation. This dubious declaration to his subjects stated Gamay (Gameez below) was "a very bad and disloyal variety called Gameez". He went on to state: "And this very wine of Gameez is such a kind that it is very harmful to human beings, so much so that many people who had it in the past were infested by serious diseases, as we've heard; because said wine from said plant of said nature is full of significant and horrible bitterness. For this reason, we solemnly command you... all who have said vines of Gameez to cut them down or have them cut down, wherever they may be in our country, within five months".

Phillippe's bold decree was motivated by the fact that Burgundy and Beaujolais were well known for its Pinot Noir, which was valued not only for its monetary return but also as a bargaining chip in diplomatic negotiations. While Gamay is much easier to grow and lined the pockets of those vintners who grew it, it did not provide Phillippe with the return on investment he was after. The decree hindered but did not stop plantings of the grape, as sixty years later his successor Philippe the Good had to make a similar decree for similar reasons. As time passed Gamay was reinstated in the vineyards of Beaujolais, leading to another more recent chapter in Gamay's existence, Beaujolais Noveau.

To understand Beaujolais Nouveau, one must start with the law. The first legislation on wine originated with the appellation d' origine controlee (AOC) in 1901, and Beaujolais was declared its own wine region in 1936. With such designation comes rules about when and how much of that year's wine could be released. After World War II, the law was ratified allowing Beaujolais producers to release more wine earlier to lift the spirits of the citizens.

This earlier release was eventually determined to be on the third Thursday of November allowing consumption of the wines just weeks after they were made (hence "Nouveau"). Soon enthusiasts were literally racing to get Beaujolais Nouveau causing a spike in demand, and the release became a national event. Word spread around the world and Beaujolais Nouveau was shipped globally to be enjoyed on the third Thursday of November. By the 1980's demand had far surpassed supply, and other producers jumped on the bandwagon. The unfortunate result was a flooding of the market with low quality wine. The markets in turn reacted, turning their backs on Beaujolais Nouveau, leaving Beaujolais with a somewhat tarnished reputation.

However, to turn one's back on Beaujolais is to pass up a tremendous value. More emphasis has been placed on the unique terrior, mostly granite soils in which Gamay thrives. Wine enthusiasts especially love the ten Beaujolais Cru (St.-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte-de-Brouilly, and Brouilly).

Image

One producer of note is Nicole Chanrion, who began her career in the 1970's. Her mother thought that creating great wines was man's work, but she would not be deterred in her goal of following a deep family tradition of becoming a vigneronne. Her passion drove her to work 6.5 hectares (16.1 acres) boldly by herself and to later become the president of Côte-de-Brouilly appellation.

Nicole still demands that her grapes are hand harvested and techniques in the cellar are completely traditional including whole cluster fermentation, full carbonic maceration, native yeasts, and at least nine months aging in oak foudres. Her vineyard is home to 10 to 12 thousand vines per hectare all situated on the east and northeast facing mid slopes of the Côte-de-Brouilly. These hillsides are a prehistoric volcano that left blue schist stone and volcanic rock creating a unique terrior. The result is cherished wines of great structure, minerality, and aging potential.

Nicole has three wines I would like to feature for the holidays a red, white, and sparkling all made from Gamay. Beaujolais pairs so well with the variety of foods we prepare for our feasts and are such crowd pleasers you'll be covered.

Image
Image

Chanrion Brut "Effervescence"

is a vintage sparkling wine. A brilliant white sparkler that is made in the "Methode Traditionnelle" has aromas of honey, orange blossoms and buttercups. Amazing small bead mousse (the bubbles) leads to flavors of white grapefruit, stone fruit, and minerality. This wine has wonderful balance and structure leading to a pleasant lingering finish. Start your holiday party with this beauty and light appetizers.

Image

Chanrion Blanc "Perle de Gamay"

is a very unique bottling of Gamay (which typically produces red wine because of Gamay's purple skin). The grapes are lightly pressed with no skin contact creating a clear wine with opalescence hues, just like a pearl. The aromas and flavors mirror the "Effervescence" with a nice acidity holding up to your holiday entrees and pleasing your white wine lovers.

 

 

 

Image

Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly

is a garnet red, medium bodied wine with aromas of rose petals, violets, and strawberries. The flavors of bright red raspberries and cherries are well integrated with tannins and acid. It finishes with a finessed spiciness due to the minerality.

Beaujolais has so much to offer. Wines that over deliver for the price.

Sign up for our Newsletter
Sign Up